F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria 2022

Regular price $125.00 USD
Sale price
F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria 2022
F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria 2022
Regular price $125.00 USD
Sale price

The Kellerberg is an internationally critically acclaimed vineyard site par excellence. This vineyard has steep inclines and barren bedrock terraces. It faces due south to south-east and forms an outlet of a tributary valley with an exceptional microclimate. The Dürnsteiner Kellerberg is blessed with early morning sunshine, with much of the site profiting from much-needed shade from the early afternoon rays during the summer months. The latter has a huge benefit on drawing out the ripening of the grapes. At night, cool air currents from the surrounding woodlands help to retain aromatic freshness and provide complex texture and finely nuanced minerality, with tropical and seductive aromas. In autumn, diurnal temperature differences between warm days and cool nights are a significant factor during maturation process and ensure that the grapes retain their aromas.

The Kellerberg takes its name from the Baroque “Kellerschlössl”, the landmark of Dürnstein (constructed according to plans made by Jakob Prandtauer between 1714 and 1719). Hence the vineyard’s namesake is comparatively young (1787) and was allegedly introduced as a collective name for an extended number of smaller vineyards.

The Kellerberg is made up of Gföhler gneiss, a metamorphic bedrock formed from a granite-like parent rock (plutonite). Due to its southeast orientation, this prized vineyard site was historically protected from prevailing winds during the Ice Ages, resulting in deeper pockets of fine loess sediment. Erosion on the slope has naturally allowed the Ice Age sediment to integrate with Gföhler gneiss deposits, thus giving the Kellerberg its rich and bold wine styles

ABOUT FX Pichler

Founded in Oberloiben in 1898, the Pichler estate has developed a reputation as a Grüner Veltliner specialist since Franz Pichler Sr began selecting his own clones in 1928. The estate was once fulsomely described by Robert Parker as the “Château Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbrecht, Sandrone and Helen Turley of the Wachau”.

Franz Xaver (FX) took over at the estate in 1971 and his meticulous approach earned him plaudits on both the domestic and international stage. Franz Xaver’s son Lucas joined the winery team in 1996, taking over winemaking at the estate in 1999 and assuming management of the whole estate in 2009. Lucas manages the winery together with his wife Johanna, representing the 5th generation to farm these lands. Today, FX Pichler owns 20 hectares of vineyards, almost half of which are planted on steep terraces and worked entirely by hand. The aim is always to create wines that are a true reflection of the year, the soil and the special microclimate of the Wachau. The fine nuances of each respective site should be perceptible and tangible in their multi-layered uniqueness. The winery left the Vinea Wachau as of the 2020 vintage, thus dropping the use of the Federspiel and Smaragd term. Though they have always been farming organically, they started the process to certification in 2021.

 

99 points James Suckling

Outer quote mark This dry riesling has gigantic concentration, but also gigantic elegance and finesse. Still a little shy on the nose, but this has been made to age for decades. Delicate notes of white peach, pink grapefruit and mountain herbs in the nose, then on the palate also hints of licorice and white chocolate. However, the most extraordinary thing about the wine is the mind-blowing stony intensity at the extremely focused and salty finish. Doesn’t want to stop. Enormous aging potential. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Drink or hold. Inner quote mark (9/2023)

96 points Wine Advocate

Outer quote mark The 2022 Dürnsteiner Ried Kellerberg Riesling is enormously deep, dense and complex on the nose that intermingles saline notes of crushed stones with ripe and concentrated Riesling aromas. Full-bodied, dense and rich on the palate yet also tensioned and mouthwateringly saline on the finish, this is a powerful and seriously structured Kellerberg Riesling with savory acidity and a long, saline finish. Again, this is an extraordinary wine that will benefit from years in the bottle and gain finesse. (SR) Inner quote mark (5/2024)

96 points Vinous

Outer quote mark The 2022 Riesling Kellerberg smells of stone and green Seville orange—intense, pervasive, driven and bold. If energy had a smell, this would be it. Citrus, now imbued with subtle and juicy pink-cheeked white peach, drives with conviction and brio onto the linear, concentrated zesty palate. Purity and crystalline clarity present a picture of hard stone. This is like a thoroughbred, raring to go, showing beautiful length, absolute energy, and clear precision—whoa—and fragrant to the end. (Bone-dry) (AK) Inner quote mark (2/2024)

You May Also Like